Morocco Blogs

760 Days in Morocco is a great blog. It sort of defies an easy description. It is part educational blog, part travel, part ex-pat, part cooking in a makeshift Moroccan cooking and wholly a joy to read. In particular, I enjoy the Darrija word of the Day and the lively comments that follow on some posts. There is some news, but overall, I find this blog to be just eclectic enough to be enjoyable without being boorish.

760 Days in Morocco

For an example consider this sad looking sheep in the photo above and then read this about the first day of winter:

And, I’ll tell you why I deem it to be so. Last year, at this time, I had just returned from the United States (Massachusetts specifically) which was well on its way to real winter. I expected to come back to a warm Morocco having never spent a winter there and assuming it would be warm, not hot, but sunny with a few days of rain here and there. What I came back to was a cold house, the need for a warm robe and a winter jacket, a lot of rain and the highest humidity levels I’d ever known in cold weather. The women were wearing heavy djellabas with thick pashminas covering their shoulders and arms. The men wore thick navy wool djellabas over their normal clothes. Others, wore winter weight jackets and boots. Until I got my winter coat, I piled on the layers to go outside.

The first week I was able to shower in the house, but it became very clear that it wasn’t a good idea so double trips to the hammam each week became a regular occurence- one for the weekly scrub down, and the second of a soap and shampoo. The rain was incessant and it made getting laundry done impossible. Not only did it rain nearly every other day, but the high humidity meant it took up to 4 days for the clothes to dry on the roof. Even still, I’d often run over them with a dry iron to release the last bit of moisture in them. We piled three winter blankets on the bed, which I rarely got out of except to eat, use the bathroom or leave the house. After about a month, we finally bought a small space heater which didn’t do much for the overall temperature in the room, but at least we could sit in front of it to feel warmth.

A lot of friends asked me about winter in Morocco last year, and much of my response was what I described above. I also wrote this blog post in my personal blog, which I know is a repeat of much of what I said, but let’s reflect anyway.

Winter is here… how do I know? It’s evident in the pashminas worn as hijabs instead of the gauzy veils women normally adorn during the warmer months. Their djellebas are made of heavier fabrics and they drape warmly patterned wraps on top of that. Others are wearing boots and pea coats and even the men are wearing djellebas over their everyday wear. Now, its in the 60’s on most days, a little less when it rains, but people here are bundled up like its February in Canada. But, I have to admit, it is cold and I have proof…my little digital thermometer that is currently reading 59 with 79% humidity in the house! It’s super damp which is what really makes the air so cool. I’m sure you’ve already answered your own question…why don’t they just turn on the heat? Well, if you remember any of the conversations we had about how it is here, you’ve figured out we don’t have any. We wear lots of layers, pile on the blankets and eat lots of harira. I am most dismayed because I didn’t expect that 64 degrees could be cold, and because I’m not sure when winter is actually over around here. I hear late January, or maybe not until March. Sometimes we go out for a walk, because when the sun is shining, it’s warmer outside than in the house. A space heater might be in order soon!

That’s the weird thing about winter here. It is often cold and damp in the house, but when the sun is shining outside its often warmer out there, and even though you need that winter jacket, you can still sit outside for a lunch or tea at one of the cafes. But, even after a long walk to Al Manal Mall, you’re still cool to the touch on your face and hands.

So, getting to why I’m deeming yesterday the first day of winter. Well, I woke up to the thermometer reading below 70 degrees for the third day in a row, the humidity was higher than the temp for the first time, by about 5 points (of course, it’s warmer outside). I couldn’t fathom eating anything cold. I made a huge pot of beans for my lunch and ate two bowls. We bought hot chocolate which I now want every night before bed, and we had our first trip to the hammam for the second time this week for just shampoo and soap. I also wanted to sit in the warmer room this time, which I haven’t preferred all summer. I wear long sleeves and socks in the house at all times too.

Another sign of winter is the approaching Festival of the Sacrifice or Eid al-Adha, though signs of it’s coming have not noticeably appeared yet. It’s a little more than two weeks away, so I’m surprised I have not seen the long knives and barbeque supplies in the markets yet. Again, last year at this time these special supplies were sold at least a month before hand and even a few special souks were set up specifically for the holiday. And, last night when I arrived at the hammam, one of the ticket money bag ladies I don’t usually see because she doesn’t work on Saturday started asking me about the sheep. Now, of course I didn’t understand half of what she said, but I did understand her going “baaaaaa” (quite well I might add), slicing her neck with her thumb and making the appropriate accompanying noise (who knew it was universal), and finally motioned her arm barbecuing and saying “brochette”. We all laughed at her way of helping me understand what she was asking as I nodded wildly that yes, indeed it was coming soon and we are getting ready (if you call planning a trip to El Jadida getting ready).